Beef and Pork Ragu, for Pasta, Polenta, and Other Grains

Ingredients

2 pounds (900 g) boneless chuck roast, big pockets of fat and any silver skin or gristle removed, cut into 2-inch (5 cm) chunks

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound (450 g) ground pork

2 cups (300 g) finely chopped onion

½ cup (80 g) finely diced or chopped carrot

½ cup (85 g) finely diced celery

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Four 4-inch (10 cm) sprigs thyme

4 medium fresh sage leaves

Three 4-inch (10 cm) sprigs rosemary

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup (240 ml) dry white wine

One 28-ounce (785g) can whole peeled tomatoes, undrained

Directions

Season the beef with salt and pepper (a day ahead if possible, see Note).

Heat a glug of olive oil in a very large deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Blot the beef chunks with paper towels so they are nice and dry and add to the pan in an even layer with plenty of room between the chunks. You'll probably need to do this in batches, or use two pans. Cook until all sides of the chunks are nicely browned, about 15 minutes for the whole batch. Take your time to develop some nice browning, which will add so much flavor to the ragù; reduce the heat if your juices are starting to blacken in the pan. You do NOT want that to happen. Transfer the browned beef to a tray and set aside.

Break the ground pork into a couple of large chunks, add to the pan, and cook all surfaces well so they get deeply browned and slightly crusty, 5 to 10 minutes. Once the pork has browned, break it into smaller bits.

Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook, stirring to dissolve the cooked-on meat juices in the pan, until the vegetables are soft and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute, then add the thyme, sage, and rosemary.

Return the beef and any accumulated juices to the pan, then add the butter. Cook, stirring everything around, until the butter has melted and is starting to brown a bit, then add the wine. Simmer until the wine has reduced by about half, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices. Break up the whole tomatoes with your spatula or wooden spoon.

Reduce the heat so the ragù simmers merrily but not hard when covered. (Letting the sauce actually boil will toughen the beef, which is not what we want.) Cover and simmer, stirring every 20 minutes or so, until the sauce has reduced and has a nice slick of oil on top and, most important, the beef is completely tender; you should be able to shred the chunks with a fork. This can take between 1 and 3 hours, depending on your beef. It's critical to leave yourself enough time to cook the ragù until the beef gets to this point; otherwise, you'll have chewy beef, which just won't be succulent, even if you cut it into smaller pieces.

Taste and adjust the final flavoring with more salt or pepper. If time allows, chill the ragù for several hours so the fat solidifies, then remove and discard it. Keep in the fridge for up to 5 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Notes

Both of the meats in this recipe can be fatty, so I like to make this sauce at least one day ahead, chill overnight, and then spoon off the solid fat. Don't get me wrong, fat is great! That's where so much of the flavor is, but too much meat fat can feel heavy and too rich. I like to make this ragù with white wine, but red wine may be more traditional and tastes just as delicious. I suggest you make a big batch of this ragù, divide it into portions, and freeze a few for almost-instant dinners. Serve the ragù on whole wheat pasta or the Whole Wheat and Ricotta Cavatelli (page 260), or on polenta, or for a less traditional pairing, spoon some over a big bowl of brown rice or farro. It's all good.

MAKES 2 QUARTS (2 LITERS)

Note: If you have time, salt your beef up to a day ahead, which enhances the beefy flavor. Sprinkle it generously with kosher salt and spread the beef onto a large tray, ideally on a rack set over the tray. Let sit at room temperature for up to 2 hours; if you're going to "age" it longer, put it in the fridge. When ready to cook, blot off any moisture from the surface and proceed with the recipe, bearing in mind that you've already salted the meat so you don't need to add too much more during cooking.