Umami
Umami

Grains and roasted squash with spicy buttermilk dressing

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servings

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total time

Ingredients

1 cup wheat berries, soaked overnight if possible (see note, page 151)

Kosher salt

2 Honeynut or 1 butternut squash, scrubbed

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground pepper

½ cup plain whole-milk yogurt

½ cup buttermilk

1 teaspoon crushed Calabrian chiles in oil

1 lemon, halved

1 cup chopped tender herbs and/ or fennel stems and fronds

Directions

Cook the wheat berries like pasta, in a big pot of salted boiling water, until tender, 20 minutes if soaked, 30 to 40 if not (start checking at around the 20-minute mark).

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 450°F.

Peel the squash if desired (the thin skins are edible). Halve squash crosswise at the spot where the neck and the bulb meet. Cut neck crosswise into ¾-inch-thick rounds. Halve bulb end, scoop out seeds, and cut squash into 1-inch-thick half-moons.

Transfer all of the squash to a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Spread the squash out and roast until tender and lightly browned, 20 to 30 minutes, tossing gently halfway through.

Meanwhile, make the dressing: In a small bowl, stir together yogurt and buttermilk until combined, then taste and season with salt and pepper.

Add Calabrian chiles and swirl together.

Taste and season with salt and juice of ½ lemon. Thin with a splash of water if it doesn't seem loose enough to be described as "dressing" (especially relevant if using Greek yogurt).

Drain wheat berries and transfer to a medium bowl. Let cool until warm, tossing occasionally. Stir in half of the dressing.

Spread out the dressed grains on a serving platter. Top with squash and drizzle remaining dressing over. Toss herbs in a small bowl with juice of remaining ½ lemon. Season with salt.

Scatter herbs over.

Notes

Where cooking begins page 152

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