Low-Key Fruit Jam

• servings: Makes 1-2 cups

Ingredients

1 to 2 pounds fruit (however much you need to use up), chopped

1/4 cup water

Juice of 1/2 lemon, plus more to taste

Sugar to taste, depending on the fruit used

Directions

Put the fruit, water, lemon juice, and a pinch of spice, if using, in a heavy- bottomed pot, cover, and cook over medium-low heat for about 20 minutes, or until you like the texture. Check and stir occasionally to prevent sticking: if the mixture gets too dry and threatens to burn, add a few tablespoons more water (or fruit juice or wine). Let the fruit soften and collapse until you can easily mash any large pieces with a fork. Sweeten to taste. Store in an air- tight container in the fridge for a few weeks or in the freezer for up to a year.

Notes

Spice it up by stirring in a pinch of ground cinnamon or chopped fresh ginger when the jam is almost done.

Take the sauce in a savory direction by whisking it into dress- ings (page 165), swapping it in for the peaches in the Grilled Peach Barbecue Sauce (page 259), or usingit as a glaze for pork tenderloin (one of my daughter's favorite dinners): Heata splash of neutral oil in a large oven-safe skillet and brown a salted and peppered pork tenderloin on all sides over high heat. Roast at 400 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes, until an instant ther- mometer reads at least 135 degrees in the thickest part. Transfer the pork to aplate to rest and carefully put the skillet back on the Stovetop to make the pan sauce. Melt a pat of butter over medium- low heat, then add a splash of vinegar (balsamic pairs nicely with the pork) and scrape up any browned bits. Add about ½ cup jam. Stir and cook for a minute or two to combine the flavors, then spoon Over the pork to serve.

MAKE IT