Hawaiian Sweet Bread–Style Dinner Rolls

• servings: 15 rolls
• active time: 45 minutes
• total time: 4½ hours

Ingredients

445 grams (3¼ cups) bread flour, plus more for dusting

71 grams (⅓ cup) white sugar

27 grams (¼ cup) nonfat or low-fat powdered milk

2¼ teaspoons instant yeast

1 teaspoon table salt

6 ounce can (¾ cup) pasteurized pineapple juice

57 grams (4 tablespoons) salted butter, melted and cooled slightly, plus more for the pan

3 large eggs (1 egg separated)

Directions

Combine: In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk the flour, sugar, powdered milk, yeast and salt. In a 2-cup liquid measuring cup, whisk the pineapple juice, butter and the 2 whole eggs plus the third egg yolk. Attach the bowl and paddle attachment to the mixer. With the mixer running on medium-low, slowly add the pineapple-juice mixture, then mix until a webby, batter-like dough forms, about 3 minutes.

Knead/mixer: Swap the paddle attachment for the dough hook. Knead on medium, scraping the sides of the bowl and hook as needed, until smooth, shiny and extensible, 10 to 12 minutes; the dough should clear the sides of the bowl but stick to the bottom. It will be quite slack, not firm and bouncy. Gather the dough in the center.

Bulk rise 2 hours: Cover and let rise at room temperature until doubled, about 2 hours. Meanwhile, brush a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan or glass baking dish with melted butter.

Divide and shape: Flour the counter and turn the dough out onto it; dust the top with flour. Using a chef’s knife or bench scraper, divide into 15 portions, each about 60 grams (2 ounces). Dusting your hands with flour as needed, form a portion into a taut ball by rolling it against the counter in a circular motion under a cupped hand, then pinch the seam on the bottom. Place seam side down in the prepared pan, about ¼ inch from the corner. Repeat with the remaining portions, placing the dough balls in 5 rows of 3.

Second rise: Cover loosely with a kitchen towel. Let rise at room temperature until doubled and the rolls are touching, about 2 hours.

About 1½ hours into rising, heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg white and 1 tablespoon water; set aside. When the rolls are ready, gently brush the tops with egg white.

Bake and cool: Bake until the rolls are risen and deep golden brown, about 25 minutes. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Gently invert the rolls from the pan, then turn them upright. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Variant: Hawaiian Sweet Bread–Style Sandwich Loaf

Make the dough and let rise as directed. While the dough is rising, brush a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with melted butter. Flour the counter and turn the dough out onto it.

Shape: With floured hands, gently pat the dough into a 9-by-12-inch rectangle, with a short side facing you. Tightly roll the dough away from you into a 9-by-4½-inch cylinder. Turn the cylinder seam side down and place it in the prepared loaf pan.

Second rise: Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until the dough domes 1 to 1½ inches over the rim of the pan, about 2 hours. About 1½ hours into rising, heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position. In a small bowl, whisk the egg white with 1 tablespoon water. When the dough is ready, gently brush with egg white.

Bake and cool: Bake until risen and deep golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Invert the bread onto the rack, then turn upright. Cool completely before slicing.

Notes

177 Milk Street: From its small-town roots in Hilo, Hawaii, King’s Hawaiian Sweet Bread has become a mainland favorite. This is our homemade dinner roll version that delivers the characteristic soft, sweet, feathery crumb. (For a sandwich loaf, see the recipe below.)

King’s doesn’t use pineapple juice, but it is called for by a number of copycat recipes. We found it provides depth without adding fruitiness. Milk powder contributes to a loftier rise, making the crumb light and tender, and promotes deeper browning.

The rolls are best the day of baking, but they keep for a day or two at room temperature and will hold for up to a week in the refrigerator. To rewarm, wrap in foil and place in a 350°F oven for about 10 minutes.

Tip: Don’t use fresh pineapple juice, which contains bromelain, an enzyme that will affect gluten development. Pasteurized pineapple juice—whether canned, bottled or in a carton—has been heat-treated, which deactivates the bromelain.