Tuscan white Bean Soup (ATK)

Ingrédients

6 ounces pancetta, one 1 -inch-thick slice, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 pound dried cannellini beans, rinsed and picked over

1 large onion, unpeeled and halved pole to pole, plus I small onion, diced medium

4 medium unpeeled garlic cloves, plus 3 medium garlic cloves, minced

1 bay leaf

Salt and ground black pepper

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving

1 sprig fresh rosemary

Balsamic vinegar, for serving

Instructions

1. In large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, cook pancetta over medium heat until just golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Add 12 cups water, beans, halved onion, unpeeled garlic, bay leaf, and 1 teaspoon salt; bring to boil over medium- high heat. Cover pot partially; reduce heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until beans are almost tender, 1 to 1¼ hours. Remove beans from heat, cover, and let stand until beans are tender, about 30 minutes. Drain beans, reserving cooking liquid (you should have about 5 cups; if not, add more water); discard pancetta, onion, garlic, and bay leaf. Spread beans in even layer on baking sheet and cool.

2. While beans are cooling, heat oil in now- empty Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering; add diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in minced garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add cooled beans and cooking liquid; increase heat to medium-high and bring to simmer. Submerge rosemary sprig in liquid, cover and let stand off heat 15 to 20 minutes. Discard rosemary sprig and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle soup into individual bowls, drizzle each bowl with extra-virgin olive oil, and serve, passing balsamic vinegar separately.

Notes

If possible, use fresh dried beans in this soup (see "Fresh Dried Beans?" above). For a more authentic soup, place a small slice of lightly toasted Italian bread in the bottom of each bowl and ladle the soup over. To make this a vegetarian soup, omit the pancetta and add a 4-ounce piece of Parmesan rind to the pot along with the halved onion and unpeeled garlic in step 1.

WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH WINTER VEGETABLES

MAKES ABOUT 4 QUARTS, SERVING 10 TO 12

1. Follow recipe for Tuscan White Bean Soup through step 1, adding enough water to reserved bean cooking liquid to equal 9 cups. While beans are cooking, cut 2 small carrots and 2 celery ribs into medium dice; slice white and light green parts of 2 small leeks, washed thoroughly, crosswise into ½ inch pieces. Remove stems from 4 ounces kale and 4 ounces escarole and cut leaves into ½-inch strips (you should have about 3 cups each). Peel and cut 2 small boiling potatoes into medium dice.

2. In step 2, add carrot, celery, and leeks to Dutch oven along with diced onion and cook until vegetables are softened but not browned, about 7 minutes; stir in minced garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add bean cooking liquid, kale, and escarole to pot. Increase heat to medium- high and bring to boil; cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer 30 minutes. Add potatoes and one 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained; cover and cook until potatoes are tender, about 20 min- utes. Add cooled beans; increase heat to medium- high and bring to simmer. Add rosemary; cover and let stand off heat 15 to 20 minutes. Discard rosemary, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle soup into individual bowls, drizzle each bowl with extra-virgin olive oil, and serve.

QUICK TUSCAN WHITE BEAN SOUP MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS, SERVING 6

This quick variation uses canned beans and can be on the table in just 40 minutes.

6 ounces pancetta, one 1 -inch-thick slice, cut into 1 - inch cubes

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving

1 small onion, diced medium

3 medium garlic cloves, minced

Salt and ground black pepper

4 cans (15½ ounces each) cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

1 sprig fresh rosemary Balsamic vinegar, for serving

In large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, cook pancetta over medium heat until just golden, 8 to 10 minutes; discard pancetta and add oil to pot with pancetta fat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 to 6 minutes; stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add beans, ½ teaspoon salt, and 3½ cups water. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to simmer. Submerge rosemary in liquid; cover and let stand off heat 15 to 20 minutes. Discard rosemary and adjust seasonings with salt and pepper. Ladle soup into individual bowls, drizzle each bowl with extra-virgin olive oil, and serve, passing balsamic vinegar separately.

Leftovers Are Good

If you find yourself with a plethora of leftover bean soup, have no fear. In Tuscany, where nothing is wasted, leftover soup is not seen as a problem but rather is the last step in creating a delicious, homey dish called ribollita, Italian for "reboiled." The leftover soup is reheated over medium-low heat until warm. Slices of rustic day-old bread are submerged into the soup until completely softened, then the mixture is blended or mashed until very thick. True ribollita connoisseurs say that it must be thick enough to eat with a fork. Don't be put off by the strange appearance of this dish-what ribollita lacks in beauty it more than makes up for in flavor. But do be sure to use a good-quality artisan or rustic bread when making ribollita; a fluffy, market bread will result in a mushy, sloppy mess. —B.L.

Cooks illustrated 2001